I can answer your questions about a few of them. Kudos to you for wanting to use them. I will only address the history--hopefully just knowing the search terms to use will help you find more detailed directions on their use.

This site might also help you http://camerapedia.wikia.com

The first one in your imgur link is a department store Single Lens Reflex 35mm film camera (you could google 35mm SLR for articles introducing you to it's use and maintenance). It's a Sears KS2, so you could look for a manual under that name.

That model would have been popular with an amateur hobbyist, probably in the late 60's or seventies. If it still advances film and cycles the shutter, it's probably a decent shooter. The lens is nothing special. My local camera shop has boxes of cameras like this one (and many professional models from the same time period) that they simply can't get rid of as quickly as they are brought in, so I'm afraid it's not worth much.

HOWEVER, a top end Nikon F3 in good condition is a marvel of mechanical engineering.

The Polaroid Land Camera I can't tell you much about that one (I'm not that familiar with the manufacturing history). It looks like 60's-70's as well, but that's just a guess. I don't know if you care about the worth, but eBay will give you a broad idea of the collector's market. I used to see them at garage sales for fifty cents--if they are worth anything now, it's as a curiosity or decoration.

I'm not sure I can tell you anything about the third or fourth cameras (Kodak Instamatics). They are simple point and shoot cameras that would be used for snapshots and family photos. I can't date them besides saying that they are post war (WWII). Just google the model name/numbers (ie, Tele-instamatic 608).

The Brownie Hawkeye Neat piece with a lot of history. I'm afraid I don't have the time to figure out if there's film available for it. I think it uses medium format film--which you'll need to take to a camera store or send it out to a lab to develop (you won't be able to buy it or get it developed at the drug store). Worth more for sentimental value--you can buy them for thirty bucks online, but someday they will all be gone. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brownie_%28camera%29 http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Kodak_Brownie_Hawkeye

re: the polaroid film--it's discontinued. A small company in Europe bought the formula for the film, but I'm not sure if they are producing anything with it. Small lots come up on eBay--they're usually very expensive.

Polaroid Sun 600 You'll have to google this one--sorry, polaroid cameras were before my time, and I never got into them (now if you had a pile of Super8 cameras...)

The next three (the boxy leather covered cameras). If you can find some markings, I might be able to tell you more.

Same thing re: the last camera.

The very last picture is a flash module. It would have used a bulb. I've no idea how to use it, but it probably just plugs into the side of your Brownie. I don't see the flash bulbs for sale, except when a photography shop is clearing out an old cabinet in the basement.

Specialty camera shops are also very helpful with some of these things. Hope I helped!

The top camera in your list is a 35mm camera. You can still buy plenty of film for it, lots of people use film instead of digital and 35mm is the standard.

The system is really simple: you have 3 controls over the photograph (well, 4 really, the 4th being the ASA sensitivity of the film you put into the camera, typically this would be between 100 and 400, and 1000 if you're shooting in near dark).

So, the 3 controls are:

• the aperture or F-stop, which goes from 1.8 up to 16 or 32. The higher the number, the smaller the aperture through which the light will go to your film.
• the timer, which controls how long the film is exposed
• the focus.

The relation between aperture and timer is very tight: if you expose your film for, say, 1 100th of a second at F16, you will get the same amount of light on your film as if you expose it for 1 50th of a second at F32. The difference is that, with a small aperture (i.e. a higher F number), you will get more depth of field. The downside is that your film is exposed for longer, which means more things can be blurry from movement. You would use a very short exposure for things like sports events, so you catch the action without blurring, but then you need lots of light, which means a more open aperture (i.e. a lower F number). Since you then have a more open aperture, it means your lens is less forgiving with the focus (no depth of field), so you need to be very sharp in your focus. This does have the advantage that you get to focus on just the thing you're interested in, and the rest is blurry, shifting the audience's attention to the thing you want them to focus on.

So, there you have it, the basics of it, anyway. Go out and experiment with it, you'll be surprised at the kind of thing you can achieve when you have full control over everything, unlike today's point-and-click cameras.

Your other cameras are less technically complicated. The polaroid is very simple, and quite satisfying (you get to see the picture you've shot in about a minute), but the film is harder to come by, and it's not like you have much control over how the image is going to look.

Honestly you should see if there's an /r/photography or the like, I don't know if we have any experts here on this.

If you can find a film cartridge for the Poloroid, (try eBay) you're in for a real treat. That particular model was used extensively in the days before digital to set up lighting and background for professional shots-- both still and action. Casting directors were particularly enamored of them because you could write on the back of them.

The snap image developed within a minute- so adjustments could be made immediately without having to waiting for film to be developed- and the technology was well-respected by photographers for both its color clarity and the longevity of the actual photos.

I still have several hundred of them in my collection, and they're as clear and colorful as the day they were taken.

There's little to go wrong with box cameras like those last four, so if you can still get the correct size of roll-film they.'re probably still usable. Try opening the back, there's often a sticker inside telling you the correct size. If it says "120" or "Kodak No 2" (same thing) you're in luck but sadly there were lots of other sizes which are now long obsolete.

I' don't know what make they are- it was usually embossed on the carry-strap which is missing from most of them- but they don't look like Kodak.As to date- could be any time from c1905 to c1940, most likely 1920's or '30s.

All these work much the same way- to load film, undo the back (or front on one of them), pull the winding-key out a bit and then the whole "guts" of the camera can be withdrawn. You need an empty film spool- there's probably one in there or try ebay or a lab that handles 120. Put that in the slots where the winding-key will mate with it and the new roll of film on the other side of the carrier.Bring the paper leader of the film right round the carrier and poke it into the slot on the empty spool.(It is just paper for a while, so need to do this in the dark, though don't do it in bright light.) Now put the camera back together, push the winding-key in again and turn it until you can see the number 1 in the red window on the back- and you'r'e good to go. The controls are simple- the shutter works by the lever on the side. Beware, it usually works on both the up and down strokes, and it's not interlocked with the film winder, so it's very easy to make double exposures!

There may be a tab to pull to give you one or two smaller apertures- you'll probably want the smallest with modern film if there is.There's usually one to hold the shutter open as well which isn't much use these days.

Winding film as I've said involves turning the key until the next number appears in the window. You'll get eight shots on 120 film, 6cm x 9cm- you'll notice there's two viewfinders on most of them one for portrait, one for landscape,

When you've taken those eight wind on until all the paper has passed the window and open the camera. Seal the exposed film with the the sticky tab provided so it stays tightly wound on the spool and take/send it to the lab. Use the slowest (smallest ASA no) film you can get- 1920's films were much slower than today's.- and you might want to cover the red window with tape when you're not winding film for the same reason. Good luck!

The Hawkeye will work much the same way- and it actually has film in it! I doubt you'll get anything using the unexposed part, but a lab might be able to recover the already- exposed images for you.

The flip flash bulbs are for your instamatic. I used have a fisher price instamatic camera (pretty much the same thing as yours, only encased in a durable rubber shell) when I was about 10. It used those same bulbs. You just plug them into a slot (I can see the slot on the top of your instamatic, right above the kodak symbol on the front).

It looks like yours haven't been used. You can tell because it burns out the bulb when you take a picture with them. When you've used up all four on one half, you flip it over and put the other end in the slot.