I wouldn't say that Venice was considered a "happenin' city" during the Enlightenment era, while it was still a major economic zone in Italy for Habsburg Austria, it would pale in comparison to major cities like Paris, Amsterdam, and London. Further, I'd ask if you were looking at a specific part of the Enlightenment as it was mainly from the 1650s to 1789, both start and end date have VERY different Eruopes.

Edit: If you're looking at the Arts, you'd look at Paris or Vienna.

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