How did hotels work in the Soviet Union?

by dbarefoot

This past weekend, I stayed at a hotel in Krakow that had apparently been in operation since the 16th century. This means, of course, that the hotel was in operation under Communist rule.

I realized that I have no idea how such a business worked during the Soviet era. Did the state own the hotel, and operate it as a revenue-generating business? If so, what happened after the dissolution of the Soviet Union? How much did it cost to stay in a hotel like the one I stayed in (I don't want to name it, so as to avoid appearing to be promoting it)?

kieslowskifan

The nature of Soviet and Eastern bloc tourism and travel is that privilege didn't as express itself in terms of luxury as in Western tourism (bigger seats, better peanuts, etc.) but rather was defined by access to the various state-controlled agencies that handled tourism and travel. The Soviet elite had a much less restricted travel itinerary and far less hurdles navigating the travel bureaucracy.

The state subsidized both rail and air fare so much that prices often became divorced from cost, so in theory, any working-class Soviet stiff could afford to travel. Hotel prices were kept at low subsidized prices of 2-3 Rubles. Hotels were to be the antithesis of bourgeois tourism in which low costs and collective tour packages would replace the class-based travel experience predicated on wealth and highly individualized. In practice, tourism for the rank and file was an exercise in patience and "organizing" your travel plan. They typical early Soviet tourist though the Thaw had to navigate either through state agencies like Intourist, Sputnik (the Komsomol travel group) Orbis (the Polish travel agency- initially a private agency but put under state control), or various workplace-related tour groups. Air tickets in the 1970s typically had to be booked up to twenty days in advance and then one would receive confirmation up to two to three days before the flight.

In the case of hotels, the various state tourist agencies ran the hotels and entry into them was highly segregated. Western tourists and the bureaucratic elite were allowed into the posh and modern hotels. Western tourists in the 1960s and 70s often commented that although slightly behind Western hotels in amenities, they represented a good value. Although the travel itinerary was highly circumscribed for Western tourists and they were a relatively small segment of the global tourist market, the Soviet and Eastern bloc states did cater to their needs. Western visitors increasingly became a source of hard currency for these regimes and Western tourists could shop at the special duty-free shops that sold amenities not available to the wider public. The need for hard currency drove the construction or renovation of five-star hotels which would be used by foreign tourists. The state catered far less to the needs of the Soviet tourist and their hotels were far less spacious and the food was more plain. Demand would often exceed supply for accommodations and in some famous cases Soviet tour groups were turned away because of the presence of foreign tour groups. Again, a lot was dependent upon connections and the sway one's tour group could pull.

You have to remember that on paper, the Soviet system was very egalitarian. Even the class distinctions between the elite and the bulk of Soviet travelers was not nearly as vast and sharp as what one would see in Western countries. Soviet elites might have higher quality hotels and food, but places like the so-called "Soviet Riviera" at Gagra in the Caucasus did not match the opulence of their Western analogues. However, where the Soviet system rankled many was its favoritism of its state apparatchik; in this case, they reaped more of the benefits of proletarian travel than those the system was to benefit.

Sources

Gorsuch, Anne E. All This Is Your World: Soviet Tourism at Home and Abroad After Stalin. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2011.

Gorsuch, Anne E., and Diane P. Koenker. Turizm: The Russian and East European Tourist Under Capitalism and Socialism. Ithaca [u.a.]: Cornell University Press, 2006.

Giustino, Cathleen M., Catherine J. Plum, and Alexander Vari. Socialist Escapes: Breaking Away from Ideology and Everyday Routine in Eastern Europe, 1945-1989. New York: Berghahn, 2013.