Context of early 19th century fine Dutch made men's clothing?

by bartieparty

While reading Gogol's Dead Souls, a story that takes place in early 19th century Russia, I have noticed Gogol making numerous mentions on luxurious Dutch shirts, undergarments and lace from Brabant. What is the context of this? Is it a nomination of style in the same manner that we today talk of Italian and English suits? Or were the Netherlands a prominent producer of luxury men's clothing in this time?

cecikierk

If I remember correctly the guy is specifically fond of Dutch linen. During the Dutch Golden Age linen production was an important industry in the city of Haarlem and there were many contemporary writings praising linen from Haarlem. Poet Samuel Ampzing wrote in Description and Praise of the City of Haarlem that Dutch linen is comparable and rivals Italian linen. In a book published in 1643 named Des wereldts proef-steen, ofte, De ydelheydt door de waerheyd, the author wrote: "Holland sends us very fine yarn, and the finest linenwares...and we make great pleasures with that nicely woven cloth, because through the firm thread it is comfortable to wear and sew, so that often someone wished that the finest spider webs hanging there in the corner were better than Holland's cloth." As a result Haarlem acquired a reputation of producing fine linen.

In context of the book, Russia has always been a large linen producing nation. However Russian linen do not have the same kind of reputation around the world as Dutch linen. Chichikov not only liked Dutch linen, but also other luxury goods like imported soap, cologne, sugar (even though domestic versions of these are readily available) etc to show his extravagance in contrast to the harsh condition the serfs are enduring.